Sailing Croatia
by Carolyn Steinberg
Dubrovnik, Croatia
In August 2023, we headed to Croatia for a bareboat sailing holiday. Landing in Dubrovnik, it is definitely worth spending a minimum of two days exploring Dubrovnik Old Town prior to sailing. Dubrovnik or Ragusa (as it is historically known) is on the Adriatic Sea in Southern Dalmatia and is part of the Schengen Zone.
Euro is the accepted currency in Croatia. Credit cards are welcome in larger towns; however, it's advised to carry cash when visiting the smaller islands.
There are accommodation options inside and outside the Old City walls. However, it is worth paying the premium to stay inside to fully experience the beauty of this area.
OPTIONS FOR SAILING
Whether you decide on a monohull or a catamaran, there are three different options for charter holidays sailing out of Dubrovnik:
- Bareboat Charter where you sail the boat with your own crew and have full freedom to choose where you wish to sail on your own schedule.
- The Flotilla Holiday where you have a skipper who travels with you and mans the helm; or
- Flotilla where you can sail your own boat alongside skippers with their own dedicated yacht.
BAREBOAT CHARTER
Our decision on who to sail with was straightforward, having prior experience with the Sunsail Group. We trusted their commitment to high-quality boats, maintenance standards, professional staff, and comprehensive briefings before setting sail—a guarantee of safety and preparedness.
Considering our preference for a vessel designed for superior performance and control in diverse conditions, we selected the 41ft Jeanneau monohull for a two-week bareboat charter. This choice required a Skipper qualification, which we had and presented upon boat collection. The well-equipped yacht boasted 3 cabins, 2 heads, 8 berths, a deck shower, a fully furnished galley, dual helm stations, on-shore A/C, and advanced navigational gear. With ample space for our crew of four, it was an ideal fit for our needs.
When booking a charter boat through Sunsail, you will receive, detailed information about understanding local weather systems, how to execute a Mediterranean mooring, navigation, emergency equipment, radio protocol and a cruising guide. This information is valuable, and I recommend all crew engage with the material available prior to setting sail to ensure everyone knows what to expect.
There are two marinas in Dubrovnik, ensure your transport takes you to the Marina up-river – the ACI Marina Dubrovnik. When you arrive, check into the Sunsail office, they will allow you to leave your baggage at the office whilst you organise a time for your briefing. We chose 3pm, allowing us time to swim at the pool, have lunch, shower and to provision the boat from the ACI Marina supermarket. There is an option to have Sunsail group provision your boat prior to your arrival with a premium applied.
The supermarket had plenty of fresh and dry provisions, cheeses and gourmet produce, however item prices are inflated. Remember to take a trolley from the marina as the supermarket is a 10-minute walk away. At most ACI Marinas on the Islands there are supermarkets of varying quality, but you can always get some provisions. It is easy to stock up on bread and milk along the way at most of the larger islands. Sunsail provide a complementary basic introductory provision box containing items such as teabags, toilet paper, dishwashing liquid and rubbish bags.
Staying in the Marina the first night allowed us to familiarise ourselves with the boat, safety equipment and rigging. There is an option to stay at Hotel Vimbula (10-minute walk away) and to eat at the restaurant attached to the hotel (I recommend the restaurant!).
Compulsory pre-departure briefings by Sunsail will cover the weather system forecasts for the coming week and suggested itineraries, based on the wind direction. Understanding the dynamic nature of the weather helped us to remain completely flexible with our route plan.
Leaving the pen for the first time can be daunting, there is an option to have one of the Sunsail Skippers on board to skipper the pen exit, this can also be done upon your return at the end of the boat hire. Radio or telephone ahead to organise the skipper so they can meet you outside the marina. The pen you leave from, is generally the one the boat is returned to, so note the location to save confusion upon return. Staff are generally on the dock to assist you at the end of your sailing holiday. It is helpful to the staff if you have made running notes on anything that requires attention post sailing. This assists them to expediate repairs and maintenance.
With an abundance of stunning destinations to explore, investing time in researching each port and noting their key attractions before departure proves highly rewarding. Consider making a list of restaurant names and their contact details; this way, you can easily call ahead to secure lunch or dinner reservations.
Over the two weeks, we visited Ston, Pomena, Korcula, Trstenik and Sudurad to name a few. Having the extra week meant we could take our time exploring and change our route or stay a little longer in one spot.
An anchorage fee is charged at most destinations; however, there are some restaurants such as Stella Maris, Island of Mljet, where you can dock for free as long as you eat at the restaurant.
Depending on the time of year, Croatia can be very busy, so in some cases it was easier for us to drop anchor and get a water taxi to the port. We found replenishing supplies relatively easy and loved the guy in Lovisle who went from boat to boat in the evening taking orders for delicious baked goods (ie: apple strudel), then delivered them the following morning.
KEY LEARNINGS
- Have a plan and inform your crew early of their requirements eg: The position of the fenders and at what height. Set them low for some jetties, high when on Mediterranean mooring.
- Review the weather and have a planning meeting each evening for the following days itinerary. Revise the weather each morning before setting sail. Review the weather and plan constantly. Be aware of local weather determined by the geography of the islands; you can face unusual winds and currents when there is a cluster of islands.
- Know how to proficiently execute a Mediterranean mooring (reversing into a tight pen).
- Phone or radio ahead for ACI Marinas, get clear instructions on where they would like you to dock.
- Book ahead for popular restaurants/locations.
- Have your boat papers and money ready when you dock.
- Take your rubbish with you each time you exit to land. Some islands have great recycling bins located relatively close to shore.
- Some anchorages are deep, ensure you don’t drag anchor.
- Staying away from marinas can save you a lot of money.
- Don’t over provision, there are lots of options to eat out if you choose to do so.
- You are required to refuel the boat at the end of the charter. This can be a busy time, you may have to queue and wait, but is much cheaper than getting the charter company to refuel the boat.
- When mooring, secure all lines, then adjust bow lines, test by slowly reversing to ensure if the wind changes direction, the stern of the boat won’t hit the jetty.
- We hired kayaks, we didn’t think they were worth the money as we hardly used them.
- Take your own snorkelling gear. Sunsail only provide fins.
- The fridge onboard is ample for drinks and food.
- Utilise the books in the maps desk, they have lots of good information, phone numbers, restaurants, ACI marina information.
- Join the Sunsail WhatsApp group. You can communicate with the base manager, seek advice regarding weather conditions, bays, equipment, you can also communicate with other Sunsail charter boats.
- Understand how the mooring system works, the mooring buoys often do not have ropes attached, you need to be ready with your own rope.
Our holiday was truly amazing. While we did encounter a few hair-raising moments navigating storms and strong winds, the overall weather remained favourable, and we successfully sidestepped any major issues.
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